Garmin Foretrex 401 || Long Term Review
Since I couldn’t find many in-depth reviews, I decided to step up and share my own long-term experience. While I wouldn’t consider myself a GPS expert, I do have substantial knowledge of how GPS units work and regularly use them as part of my job. That said, I’m someone who still prefers navigating with a paper map as my primary method, using GPS as a secondary tool. With that context in mind, here we go!
One of my main goals was to have a single device that I could easily move from bike to bike or carry with me on the go. The Garmin 401 met that need perfectly. Transferring the unit between bikes takes only seconds, although I did purchase an additional bike mount kit for about $15 to make the process seamless. The unit comes with both a hook-and-loop wrist strap and an equipment strap, but I’ve only ever used the wrist strap—I’ve never found a reason to use the other. Unlike the Garmin 201 I previously owned, the 401’s strap has held up well. I’ve never had issues with the screws breaking, while the watch-style pins on the 201 broke constantly.
Referring back to my original list of requirements, I haven’t used requirement #3—cadence tracking—since I never got around to purchasing the cadence sensor. So, unfortunately, I can’t provide any feedback on that feature (though this serves as a good reminder that I should finally buy one). As for requirement #9—data download—the unit has a USB port located on the back, protected by a rubber cover. Over time, however, that rubber cover has torn.
The torn rubber cover hasn’t been a dealbreaker, but it’s worth noting. At the end of each day, I recommend removing the cover to check for any moisture and drying the area if necessary.
While we're on the back of the unit, let’s talk about batteries. The Garmin 401 uses two user-replaceable AAA batteries. I opt for lithium batteries for two main reasons: first, they offer the maximum runtime—up to 15 hours—and second, they perform better in cold conditions. Lithium batteries can handle temperatures down to -32°F, while alkaline batteries tend to freeze at 32°F. I also use lithium batteries in my headlamp for the same reason.
When you power on the unit, the first screen that appears is an "If lost, contact ##" message—useful if your device ever goes missing. From there, I have the pages customized to my needs: first, a map page that displays my tracklog; next, a compass page that shows final distance and bearing. The screen I use most often is set up like a cycling computer, showing trip odometer, heart rate, cadence, moving average speed, total time, stop time, and current speed.
Pro Tip #1: Before each ride, I reset my ride data and calibrate the altimeter by setting it to the known elevation of my house. If you’re unsure of your altitude, just use Google Earth—at the bottom of the screen, it displays the elevation of wherever your cursor is pointed.
The biggest drawback I’ve found when cycling with this unit is the lack of a built-in base map, unlike many dedicated cycling GPS devices. If you need to cut your ride short or reroute unexpectedly, there’s no onboard map to guide you back. That said, I use this GPS for more than just cycling, so this limitation is manageable for me.
Pro Tip #2: Always clear the tracklog and journey stats before starting a new outing. If you don’t, the unit will draw a direct track line from your last recorded location—like your home—to your new location, which can be confusing and clutter your data. You definitely don’t want that happening.
I hope you find this helpful. If you have questions, post your comments in the section below
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